Woodworking Hand Tools Intro

Woodworking Hand Tools Intro

When to Use

Use this skill when the user's request matches one of the following specific scenarios:

• User explicitly wants to start woodworking using hand tools and has no prior experience with woodworking of any kind
• User asks which hand tools they need to buy first, asks about building a starter tool kit, or asks how to prioritize tool purchases on a limited budget
• User asks how to sharpen chisels, plane blades, or other edge tools -- including questions about sharpening stones, angles, honing guides, or the "scary sharp" sandpaper method
• User wants a first woodworking project recommendation that builds foundational skills rather than producing a specific object (a shelf, box, or decorative item they have already chosen)
• User asks about wood species selection for beginner-level hand-tool projects, including where to buy wood, what to look for at the lumber yard, or how to read a board for defects
• User has inherited a set of old hand tools and wants to know whether they are usable and how to restore them to working condition
• User asks about safe chisel and hand saw technique, including questions about workholding, body positioning, or injury prevention

Do NOT use this skill when:

• User wants to use power tools -- table saws, routers, random orbit sanders, drill presses, biscuit joiners, or track saws (redirect to a power-tool woodworking skill)
• User has a specific furniture design or set of architectural drawings they want to execute (use a furniture-design or plans-reading skill)
• User wants professional cabinetmaking techniques -- face frames, dado joints cut with a table saw, drawer slides, or kitchen installation (use a cabinetmaking skill)
• User asks about 3D printing, CNC routing, or laser cutting (use 3d-printing-beginner-guide or a CNC skill)
• User is asking about wood finishing only -- staining, varnishing, applying oil finishes, or painting already-built objects (use a wood finishing skill)
• User wants to sharpen kitchen knives (sharpening geometry is different; use a knife-sharpening skill)
• User wants to build something structural (deck, framing, load-bearing shelf) where code compliance, fastener schedules, and structural engineering matter (use a carpentry or structural skill)

Process

Step 1 -- Gather the User's Starting Conditions

Before recommending any tools or projects, collect four specific pieces of information. If the user has not volunteered them, ask directly and concisely. Do not overwhelm with a long questionnaire -- three to four short questions at most.

• Workspace: Is it a garage, basement, spare bedroom, apartment, or no dedicated space? This determines whether a permanent bench is feasible, whether noise matters, and how much workholding equipment is needed. An apartment user gets a different recommendation than a garage user.
• Budget: Establish whether this is under $75, $75--150, $150--250, or $250--500. Hand-tool woodworking has a low financial floor -- meaningful work is possible under $100 -- but the tool recommendations change significantly at each tier.
• Existing tools: Many beginners have inherited tools, have a general-purpose tape measure, or have basic clamps. Every tool already owned reduces the priority of that purchase and shifts budget to gaps. Old inherited tools can be excellent if restored.
• Goal: Distinguish between pure skill-building (the user wants to learn the craft) and output-oriented (the user has a specific object in mind). A skill-builder gets the full project sequence; an output-oriented user gets the project sequence adapted to their target object.
• Physical constraints: Note any hand strength limitations, vision impairment, left-handedness (affects saw kerf placement and chisel grip orientation), or age-related factors for young beginners.

Step 2 -- Build the Tool Acquisition Plan in Priority Order

Present tools as five sequential priority tiers. Never list everything at once as a single shopping list. The user should buy Priority 1 tools, use them, buy Priority 2, and so on. This staged approach keeps beginners from accumulating tools they cannot yet use.

Priority 1 -- Measuring and Marking ($30--50)

These tools are purchased first because no other tool can be used effectively without them. Accuracy begins at layout.

• Combination square (12 inch): This is the single most important tool in a hand-tool kit. It measures and marks 90-degree and 45-degree angles, checks whether an edge is square to a face, and functions as a depth gauge and straightedge. The blade should lock firmly with no play -- test this by pushing and pulling the blade laterally after locking. A 12-inch blade is more useful than a 6-inch blade for most beginner work. Look for a square with a hardened and ground blade, not a stamped blade that may not be truly 90 degrees.
• Marking gauge: Scribes a line parallel to an edge at a set and repeatable distance. A wheel-type cutting gauge (with a small circular blade instead of a pin) severs wood fibers cleanly and leaves a cleaner line than a pin gauge. Wheel gauges are strongly preferred over traditional pin gauges for hand-tool work because the line they leave is sharper and does not tear the grain.
• Marking knife: A marking knife (a single-bevel knife, not a utility knife) leaves a hairline registration line that a pencil cannot match. The knife line also creates a small groove that seats the chisel or saw perfectly. Use a 0.5mm mechanical pencil as a backup but learn to use the knife for joinery layout.
• Tape measure: A 16-foot retractable with a wide blade (1 inch) for rigidity. The hook at the end should have a small amount of intentional play -- this is correct, not a defect -- equal to the thickness of the hook itself, so measurements from both inside and outside a corner are accurate.

Priority 2 -- Cutting ($25--60)

• Hand saw -- Japanese ryoba (recommended for beginners): The ryoba is a two-sided pull saw with crosscut teeth on one side (for cutting across the grain) and rip teeth on the other (for cutting with the grain). Pull saws are ideal for beginners because the cut is made on the pull stroke -- the blade is in tension, not compression -- so it cannot buckle. Starter cut is easier to control. Look for a blade 240--270mm (9.5--10.5 inches) in length with replaceable blades. Replacement blades cost $8--15 and eliminate the need for saw sharpening for years.
• Western crosscut saw (alternative): A 12-point crosscut saw (12 teeth per inch) is the traditional alternative. It cuts on the push stroke, which requires more care to start the kerf accurately. Use the thumb of the non-dominant hand to guide the saw on the first two strokes -- barely -- and only with extreme care, keeping the thumb above the teeth.
• Coping saw: A coping saw has a thin, narrow blade tensioned in a C-frame and is used for curved cuts and removing waste from joints (particularly when clearing the waste from dovetail pins). Blades are cheap and replaceable. The blade tension should be firm but not so tight it snaps on first use.

Priority 3 -- Shaping ($60--120)

• Chisel set: A minimum of three chisels: 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, and 3/4 inch. Bevel-edge chisels (where the sides are angled rather than square) are more versatile than firmer chisels because the angled sides allow them to fit into corners of joints. Handles should be either hornbeam wood or tough plastic -- both withstand mallet strikes. Avoid chisels with steel-capped handles for now (they imply heavy mortise work beyond beginner level). Mid-range quality is essential: very cheap chisels (under $5 each) are made from soft steel that will not hold an edge even after sharpening. More expensive bench chisels with cryogenically treated O1 or A2 steel hold edges longer but cost $30--50 each and are unnecessary at this stage.
• Block plane -- low-angle, adjustable mouth: A block plane is the hand-plane most immediately useful for beginners. It is held in one hand and used for trimming end grain, chamfering edges, fitting boards to length, and general cleanup. The "low-angle" designation means the blade is bedded at 12 degrees, giving an effective cutting angle of 37 degrees (bevel up), which slices end grain cleanly. The adjustable mouth (the gap in front of the blade) should be set very narrow for fine finish cuts and slightly wider for rougher work. Tighten the mouth before photographing work -- it affects tear-out dramatically. The blade must be sharpened before first use.
• Wooden or rubber-faced mallet: 12--16 oz is the correct weight range for driving chisels. A wooden mallet transmits force smoothly and does not damage chisel handles. A rubber-faced mallet (dead-blow style) absorbs rebound and is slightly easier to control. NEVER use a steel-faced hammer on wood-handled chisels -- steel hammer strikes split handles at the bolster and can drive the handle down into the socket, destroying the chisel.

Priority 4 -- Workholding ($20--120, partially improvised)

No cut is safe or accurate without the work being held firmly. Workholding is as important as cutting tools.

• Vise: A woodworking front vise mounted to a workbench is the ideal solution. However, a portable woodworking vise that clamps to a table (often called a "machinist's vise" in lighter form, or a proper woodworking vise with wooden jaw faces) is a good interim solution. Look for a vise with at least 4-inch jaw depth. Avoid flimsy plastic-bodied vises -- they flex under load and ruin accuracy.
• Bar clamps: 2--4 bar clamps in the 12--24 inch range. F-style bar clamps (also called F-clamps) are the most versatile starter clamp. The sliding bar allows rapid adjustment and the locking mechanism is reliable. Quick-release versions are faster to set but identical in clamping force. For glue-ups, buy one clamp more than you think you need -- they are always in short supply during assembly.
• Spring clamps: 4--6 spring clamps with 2-inch jaw opening. These hold items temporarily while glue is applied or while marking. They cannot replace bar clamps for serious clamping pressure but are indispensable for small tasks.
• Improvised workholding: A non-slip rubber mat under the work and one bar clamp securing the board to a heavy table will serve for many beginner operations. A shooting board (a simple flat board with a fence along one edge) improves the accuracy of end-grain planing dramatically and can be built from scraps in under an hour.

Priority 5 -- Sharpening ($20--50)

Buy these at the same time as Priority 3. Chisels and plane blades from the manufacturer are rarely sharp enough to use. They require initial sharpening before first use and periodic maintenance throughout every session.

• Sharpening stones: A combination waterstone (1000 grit on one side, 4000 grit on the other) is the most economical and effective option for beginners. Waterstones are fast-cutting and produce a refined edge. Soak the stone for 5--10 minutes before use and keep the surface wet during sharpening. The "scary sharp" alternative -- wet/dry sandpaper adhered to plate glass or a granite tile -- costs under $15 and produces excellent results at the coarse and medium stages. 80-grit for reshaping a badly damaged edge, 220 for establishing the bevel, 400 and 800 for refining, 1500 and 2000 for finishing. The plate glass must be perfectly flat -- check with a straightedge before using.
• Honing guide: A honing guide holds chisels and plane blades at a fixed angle during sharpening. This eliminates the most common beginner mistake: rounding the bevel by unconsciously rocking the blade during the stroke. Set the projection of the blade from the guide using a simple ruler (25mm projection for a 25-degree angle on most guides). Non-essential for experienced sharpeners but dramatically improves results for beginners.
• Leather strop: A strop is a piece of vegetable-tanned leather (rough side up) glued to a flat board, charged with green chromium oxide honing compound. The strop is the final step in sharpening and the most frequent maintenance step. After every 20--30 minutes of work, strop both the bevel and the back of the blade 8--12 strokes per side. This removes the microscopic wire edge (burr) that forms during sharpening and re-aligns the molecular structure of the edge. A stropped edge cuts more cleanly than a stone-only edge.

Step 3 -- Teach Sharpening as a Foundational Skill

Sharpening must be presented before the first project, not after the user has already struggled with a dull tool. The most common reason beginners quit hand-tool woodworking is that dull tools make the work feel impossibly difficult and the result looks rough and torn.

Why sharpness matters mechanically: A sharp edge is a wedge with a very small included angle. The force required to push it through wood fibers is proportional to the thickness of the wedge. A dull edge has a rounded or ragged apex -- it no longer divides fibers cleanly, it compresses them. This requires far more force, which causes slipping, which causes injury. A sharp chisel should require only light mallet taps or fingertip hand pressure to pare wood cleanly.

The geometry of edge tools:

• Chisels: primary bevel at 25 degrees for general work, 30 degrees for hard wood or heavy mallet work. A secondary micro-bevel of 30 degrees (for a 25-degree primary bevel) can be added at the final honing stage to reduce the amount of metal removed during subsequent sharpenings.
• Block plane blades: bevel-up bedding means the cutting angle equals bed angle (12 degrees) + bevel angle. A 25-degree bevel gives 37 degrees -- good for soft and medium hardwoods. Raise to 38 degrees (26-degree bevel) for harder woods.

The three-step sharpening process:

Step 1 -- Flatten the back (done once on a new tool, rarely repeated): Place the chisel or blade flat on the coarse stone (back face down, entire back on the stone). Rub in a circular or back-and-forth motion until the area within 1/2 inch of the cutting edge is uniformly polished and scratch-free. Use a steel ruler or flat surface to verify there is no hollow in the back. This step is not a bevel -- the back must be perfectly flat. A hollow-ground back (some tools have a machined hollow from the factory) is acceptable; only the land near the edge needs to be flat.

Step 2 -- Sharpen the bevel: Set the honing guide to the correct angle. Use a piece of masking tape on the stone to protect the non-sharpening area from the guide's roller. Run the bevel along the full length of the stone using moderate downward pressure and an even forward stroke. Count strokes and maintain consistent pressure throughout. After 30--40 strokes on the coarse stone, check the edge under a bright light -- look for a consistent shiny scratch pattern across the full width of the bevel with no shiny spots on the very edge (a shiny spot on the edge indicates the bevel is not reaching the apex). A very fine burr will form on the flat back of the blade -- this is correct.

Step 3 -- Refine on fine stone (4000 grit or 1500-grit sandpaper): Repeat with 20--30 strokes. The scratch pattern should become finer and more uniform. The apex of the edge should begin to look mirror-like. Flip to the back and make 2--3 light strokes flat to remove the fine burr. Alternate 5 strokes per side, back and forth, until the burr breaks off.

Step 4 -- Strop: Pull the edge backward (edge trailing, never leading -- leading stroke will cut the strop and roll the edge) across the leather 10--12 times on the bevel side. Turn over and strop the back 10--12 times. Repeat 2--3 cycles.

The sharpness test: The edge should shave arm hair cleanly without dragging (the paper test -- slicing printer paper with a single downward stroke leaving a clean cut -- is also reliable). If it does not pass, return to the fine stone for 10 strokes and strop again. Do not return to the coarse stone unless the edge has a visible nick or flat spot.

Sharpening frequency: Strop every 20--30 minutes of active cutting. Return to stones when stropping no longer restores sharpness (typically every 2--4 hours of sustained use, or immediately after any contact with grit, glue, or a nail in the wood).

Step 4 -- Advise on Wood Selection

The choice of wood affects every aspect of the beginner experience: how easily it cuts, how cleanly it finishes, how much it costs, and how forgiving it is of errors.

Pine (common variety: Eastern white pine or ponderosa pine): Straight-grained pine is the ideal beginner wood. It is inexpensive (often $1--3 per board foot at home improvement stores), widely available in dimensional lumber sizes (1x4, 1x6, 1x8 nominal), and cuts cleanly with sharp tools. Pine is a softwood, which means it dents from clamps -- use clamping cauls (scrap wood pads between the clamp jaw and the work) to distribute pressure. Pine can tear along the grain if the plane is set too aggressively or if the tool is even slightly dull. This teaches beginners to sharpen properly.

Poplar (a hardwood despite its moderate density): Poplar is the ideal step-up wood after the beginner has completed their first pine project. It is a true hardwood (closed grain, harder surface than pine) but is far softer and easier to work than oak or ash. It cuts and planes cleanly, holds layout lines well, and is available at most hardwood dealers. It costs slightly more than pine ($2--4 per board foot) but produces significantly better-looking results. It takes paint well but stains unevenly (avoid staining poplar -- use paint or a clear finish).

Avoid for beginners:

• Oak (red or white): grain tends to split unpredictably with hand saws, requires sharp tools to avoid tear-out, and the interlocked grain of red oak can be very difficult to plane. Not suitable for first projects.
• Cherry and walnut: expensive ($6--12+ per board foot), and mistakes in expensive wood are demoralizing. Reserve these for the third or fourth project.
• Plywood and sheet goods: the cross-grain construction makes hand-tool joinery extremely difficult. Edges are ugly without veneer edge banding. Avoid for hand-tool learning projects.
• Reclaimed or mystery wood: can contain metal (nails, screws, lead paint) that will destroy a sharp edge immediately. Always verify the wood is clean before using hand tools.

Reading a board for defects:

• Sight down the face along the full length. Any bow, cup, or twist is visible as a curve in the edge relative to your sightline.
• Check for knots: small, tight knots away from the edge of a board are acceptable for practice; large loose knots (dark ring, knot can fall out) weaken the board and are dangerous near cut lines.
• Check the end grain: look for checks (cracks radiating from the pith). A checked board can split during planing.
• Dimensional lumber at home improvement stores is sold in nominal sizes. A "1x6" is actually 3/4 inch by 5.5 inches dressed. Account for this in project dimensions.

Step 5 -- Guide the First Project Sequence

Present three progressive projects in order. The user should complete each before moving to the next. Rushing to Project 3 without completing 1 and 2 is the most common reason beginner boxes are twisted, joint gaps are visible, and frustration results.

Project 1 -- Planing a Board Flat and Square

This is not a finished object -- it is a fundamental skill exercise. It builds the muscle memory for using the block plane and the combination square together in an iterative feedback loop.

• Start with a pine board, approximately 6 inches wide and 12 inches long, at roughly 3/4 inch thickness (nominal 1x6 cut to length).
• Face 1: Place the board on the bench (or vise) and make overlapping passes with the block plane across the face. Plane with the grain direction (look at the edge of the board -- the grain lines point in a direction; plane "downhill" along them to avoid tear-out). After every 10 strokes, check with the combination square rested across the face and slid along the length. Look for light gaps between the square and the face. Mark high spots with a pencil and focus planing there.
• Skill checkpoint: the face is flat when the square blade contacts the face without rocking across the full width, at any point along the length. Tolerance: flat within 1/32 inch (roughly the thickness of a piece of paper doubled).
• Edge 1: Clamp the board vertically in the vise with the face you just flattened against the vise jaw. Plane the top edge, checking frequently with the combination square referencing the flat face. The edge must be perpendicular to the face within 1/64 inch across its width.
• Milestone: you can put the square on Face 1 and slide it along Edge 1 and see no rocking or gap.

Project 2 -- Sawing Practice

This project is done on the cut-off pieces from Project 1 or on a fresh pine board.

• On a 24-inch pine 1x4, mark 8 lines across the face using the combination square and marking knife or pencil, spaced 2.5 inches apart.
• Mark an X in the waste zone on each line (the side where the cut will remove material). The saw kerf goes on the waste side, leaving the line visible on the keeper.
• Start the kerf: for a ryoba, place the crosscut teeth on the waste side of the line and draw the saw backward 2--3 times with light fingertip pressure to establish the groove. For a western saw, use the thumb to guide as described above.
• Keep the saw plate vertical by sighting along the top of the blade as you cut. Many beginners unconsciously tilt the saw, producing angled cuts that do not assemble square.
• After all 8 cuts, measure each resulting piece with the tape measure and combination square. Record the actual length and the deviation from the target 2.5 inches.
• Milestone: 6 of 8 cuts are within 1/16 inch of the marked line. The saw face (the cut surface) has a consistent texture with no major tearout ridges. If fewer than 6 cuts meet the tolerance, repeat on a new board.

Project 3 -- Simple Butt-Joint Box

A small open-top box, approximately 8 inches long by 5 inches wide by 3 inches tall, made from 1x4 or 1x6 pine or poplar.

• Cut list: two sides (8 inches long), two ends (5 inches minus two board thicknesses = 5 minus 1.5 inches = 3.5 inches for a 3/4-inch-thick board), and a bottom (8 inches by 5 inches or ripped to fit). All pieces should be 1x4 nominal (3.5 inches actual width), which is the box height.
• Layout sequence: mark all pieces from the same reference edge, using the marking gauge for consistent lines.
• Assembly: dry-fit (assemble without glue) first and check all four corners with the combination square. Adjust any piece that is not square by planing the end grain with the block plane -- take thin shavings (blade set very fine) and check after each pass.
• Glue-up: apply wood glue to both mating surfaces, spread to a thin even film, and assemble. Install bar clamps across the ends (perpendicular to the long sides) and check the box for square by measuring both diagonals with the tape measure. The diagonals must be equal within 1/16 inch -- if they are not, slightly loosen one clamp and rack the box by pressing gently on the long diagonal until they equalize, then retighten.
• After glue is dry (minimum 1 hour at room temperature, 24 hours to full strength): plane any overhanging edges flush using the block plane, working from the corner inward to avoid breaking out the far corner.
• Optional: chamfer all top edges at 1/16 inch using the block plane set at 45 degrees. This takes 2--3 strokes per edge and dramatically improves the finished appearance.
• Milestone: diagonals equal within 1/16 inch, all joints tight with no visible glue gaps, top edges flush, edges chamfered evenly.

Step 6 -- Present Safety Rules Clearly

Safety rules are presented as a named checklist that appears before every project recommendation, not buried in a paragraph.

• Sharp tools are the primary safety mechanism. Repeat this clearly. A dull tool requires excessive force, slips unpredictably, and causes lacerations and puncture wounds. A sharp chisel pares cleanly with minimal force and stops where it is directed.
• Clamp the work before every cut. Never hold the workpiece with one hand while cutting with the other. This is responsible for the majority of hand-tool hand injuries in home workshops. If the clamp is inconvenient, the workholding setup needs to be redesigned, not bypassed.
• Chisel direction: Always cut away from your body. The cutting edge must never point toward any part of your hand, wrist, or torso. If the work must be oriented in a way that forces the chisel toward you, reposition the work.
• Eye protection: Wear safety glasses during all chiseling and when using the coping saw. Wood chips and sawdust travel unpredictably. This applies even for operations that feel minor.
• Hand placement during sawing: The guiding thumb technique (for starting a kerf) must be abandoned before full cutting strokes begin. The guiding hand moves away from the saw before applying any pressure.
• Workspace: Keep the floor around the bench clear of scraps, shavings, and off-cuts. A rolled piece of shaving or a cylindrical off-cut underfoot causes falls.
• First aid kit: A basic first aid kit should be present in any workshop. Minor cuts are common even with safe practice. Clean and cover any cut immediately -- sawdust in a wound introduces contamination.

Step 7 -- Identify Skill Milestones and Learning Path

Give the user concrete, measurable checkpoints so they know when they are ready to progress. Vague progress ("you will feel more comfortable") is not helpful.

Milestone 1 -- Planing: You can flatten a pine board face to within 1/32 inch and square an edge to within 1/64 inch without consulting the guide for each step. Time target: under 30 minutes for a 6x12-inch board.

Milestone 2 -- Sawing: 8 of 10 cross-grain cuts land within 1/16 inch of the marked line, and the cut face is smooth enough to glue without further preparation. Time target: under 2 minutes per cut.

Milestone 3 -- Sharpening: You can restore a chisel or plane blade to arm-hair-shaving sharp from a dull state in under 10 minutes using stones and strop. This means the motion is automatic, not requiring concentration on body mechanics.

Milestone 4 -- Box assembly: A butt-joint box comes out square (diagonals within 1/16 inch) on the first attempt, without racking correction after clamping. Joints close without visible gaps before glue is applied (meaning the dry-fit is already tight).

When all four milestones are achieved, the user is ready to progress to: stopped dadoes and rabbets (requiring a shoulder plane or router plane), simple mortise-and-tenon joints, or a small through-tenon box with a fitted lid. These represent the bridge to intermediate hand-tool joinery.

Step 8 -- Address Follow-Up Questions Proactively

After delivering the primary recommendation, anticipate three common follow-up questions and address them briefly:

• "Do I need to buy everything on the list right now?" No. Buy Priority 1 and 2 first. Do Project 1 and 2. Then buy Priority 3 and 5. Do Project 3. Priority 4 can be acquired as budget allows, with improvised alternatives in the meantime.
• "Can I use this at my kitchen table?" Yes, with the following: use a non-slip rubber mat, a portable vise or clamp-to-table workholding system, and a piece of sacrificial plywood under the work to protect the table surface. Keep projects small (under 12 inches in any dimension) for apartment-table woodworking.
• "How long until I can build a real piece of furniture?" Completing Projects 1, 2, and 3 takes approximately 10--15 hours of practice for most beginners. After that, a small stool or simple shelf bracket is achievable within another 10--20 hours. A proper table with mortise-and-tenon joints is a 40--80 hour intermediate project.

Output Format

## Woodworking Hand Tools Starter Plan

### Workspace and Situation Summary
- Available workspace: [garage / basement / apartment / none yet]
- Budget tier: [under $75 / $75-150 / $150-250 / $250-500]
- Existing tools: [list or "none"]
- Primary goal: [skill building / specific object / both]
- Physical/space constraints: [noise restrictions / limited space / physical limitations / none]

---

### Tool Acquisition Plan (buy in priority order, not all at once)

| Priority | Tool                   | Specification                            | Est. Cost | Buy When          |
|----------|------------------------|------------------------------------------|-----------|-------------------|
| 1        | Combination square     | 12", hardened/ground blade, locking      | $15--25   | Immediately       |
| 1        | Marking gauge          | Wheel-type cutting gauge                 | $10--18   | Immediately       |
| 1        | Marking knife          | Single-bevel, 1.5--2" blade              | $8--15    | Immediately       |
| 1        | Tape measure           | 16 ft, 1" wide blade                    | $8--12    | Immediately       |
| 2        | Hand saw               | [ryoba 240mm OR western 12-point 12"]    | $20--40   | Week 1            |
| 2        | Coping saw             | With spare blades                        | $10--15   | Week 1            |
| 3        | Chisel set             | 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" bevel-edge             | $25--50   | Week 2            |
| 3        | Block plane            | Low-angle, adjustable mouth              | $30--60   | Week 2            |
| 3        | Mallet                 | 12--16 oz wooden or rubber-faced        | $10--18   | Week 2            |
| 4        | Bar clamps (2--4)     | 12--24" F-style quick-release            | $8--12 ea | Week 2--3        |
| 4        | Spring clamps (4--6)  | 2" jaw opening                           | $2--4 ea  | Week 2--3        |
| 5        | Sharpening stones      | 1000/4000 combination waterstone         | $20--35   | With Priority 3   |
| 5        | Honing guide           | Fits chisels and plane blades            | $10--18   | With Priority 3   |
| 5        | Leather strop          | Charged with green compound              | $10--20   | With Priority 3   |
| **Total** |                       |                                          | **$[sum]**|                   |

**Budget note:** [Specific note for user's budget tier -- what to defer, what to improvise]

---

### Wood Selection for First Projects

| Project        | Species       | Nominal Size        | Actual Dimensions   | Source                  | Est. Cost |
|----------------|---------------|---------------------|---------------------|--------------------------|-----------|
| Board planing  | Pine          | 1x6, 12" length     | 3/4" x 5.5" x 12"  | Home improvement store   | $2--3     |
| Sawing practice| Pine          | 1x4, 24" length     | 3/4" x 3.5" x 24"  | Home improvement store   | $2--4     |
| Butt-joint box | Pine/Poplar   | 1x4, 6 ft total     | 3/4" x 3.5"         | Home improvement / dealer| $5--10    |

**Defect check at the store:**
- [ ] Sight down length -- no bow, cup, or twist
- [ ] No loose knots (dark ring, knot can fall out)
- [ ] No checks (cracks at board end radiating from center)
- [ ] No visible warping of the face

---

### Sharpening Protocol (before first use and during every session)

| Step         | Surface/Grit       | Angle     | Strokes         | Success Indicator                       |
|--------------|--------------------|-----------|-----------------|-----------------------------------------|
| Flatten back | 1000 grit (once)   | Flat      | Until done      | 1/2" near edge uniformly polished       |
| Shape bevel  | 1000 grit          | 25 deg    | 30--40          | Consistent scratch pattern, fine burr   |
| Refine bevel | 4000 grit          | 25 deg    | 20--30          | Near-mirror bevel apex                  |
| Break burr   | 4000 grit, flat    | Flat      | 2--3 alternating| Burr gone from back                     |
| Strop bevel  | Leather + compound | 25 deg    | 10--12 trailing | --                                      |
| Strop back   | Leather + compound | Flat      | 10--12 trailing | Shaves arm hair or slices paper cleanly |
| Maintenance  | Strop only         | Both      | 8--12/side      | Every 20--30 min of active cutting      |

---

### First Project Sequence

| # | Project               | Primary Skills                          | Success Criteria                                        | Est. Time    |
|---|-----------------------|-----------------------------------------|---------------------------------------------------------|--------------|
| 1 | Plane board flat/sq   | Planing, measuring, feedback loop       | Face flat 1/32", edge square 1/64" to face             | 1--2 hours   |
| 2 | Sawing to a line      | Layout, kerf control, accuracy          | 6 of 8 cuts within 1/16" of line, smooth face          | 1--2 hours   |
| 3 | Butt-joint box        | All above + chiseling, glue, assembly   | Diagonals equal ≤ 1/16", no visible gaps, edges flush  | 3--6 hours   |

**Do Project 1 before Project 2. Do Project 2 before Project 3. This is not optional.**

---

### Safety Checklist (check before every session)

- [ ] All edge tools have been sharpened or stropped since last session
- [ ] Work is clamped or in the vise before any cut begins -- no exceptions
- [ ] Chisel cutting direction verified: edge faces away from body
- [ ] Safety glasses on for all chiseling and coping saw work
- [ ] Workshop floor clear of shavings, scraps, and off-cuts
- [ ] First aid kit accessible and stocked
- [ ] [APARTMENT ONLY] Mallet/chisel work planned for daytime hours

---

### Skill Milestones (advance when all four are achieved, not before)

| Milestone | What to Demonstrate                                      | Tolerance / Target          |
|-----------|----------------------------------------------------------|-----------------------------|
| 1         | Plane a pine face flat and square an edge to it          | Flat ≤ 1/32", sq ≤ 1/64"  |
| 2         | Saw 8 cross-grain cuts to a marked line                  | ≥ 6 of 8 within 1/16"     |
| 3         | Sharpen a chisel from dull to hair-shaving sharp          | Under 10 minutes, unaided   |
| 4         | Assemble a butt-joint box square on first dry-fit         | Diagonals ≤ 1/16"          |

Rules

1. Always pair sharpening supplies with cutting tools in the same recommendation. Recommending chisels or a block plane without also recommending a sharpening stone, honing guide, and strop is setting the user up to fail. New tools are NOT sharp from the factory. This rule has no exceptions.

2. Always present tools in staged priority order, never as a single monolithic shopping list. A beginner given a $450 tool list buys nothing and is overwhelmed. A beginner given a $63 Priority 1+2 list starts working this week. Staged acquisition is a core feature of this skill.

3. Never recommend power tools under any circumstances in this skill. If the user asks about adding a drill press, random orbit sander, or router, acknowledge the question and explicitly redirect: "That is outside this hand-tools skill -- for power tool setups, use [the appropriate skill]." Do not partially address it.

4. Safety rules must appear in every output as a standalone named checklist, not embedded in prose. The three non-negotiable rules -- sharp tools, clamp the work, chisel away from body -- must appear verbatim in every starter plan. Burying safety in a paragraph means it gets skipped.

5. Wood species recommendations must include both cost and workability context. Never recommend a species without explaining why it is or is not appropriate for a beginner. Recommending walnut for a first project is irresponsible. Recommending pine without explaining its denting tendency leaves the user unprepared.

6. Sharpening must be presented as a skill sequence with specific angles, stone grits, and stroke counts. Vague advice like "sharpen your tools" is useless. The 25-degree angle for chisels, the 1000/4000 grit sequence, the distinction between flattening the back and sharpening the bevel, and the strop as final step must all be included whenever sharpening is covered.

7. Project success criteria must use specific dimensional tolerances (1/32 inch, 1/16 inch), not qualitative terms like "good enough," "acceptable," or "looks flat." Beginners cannot evaluate vague standards. Concrete numbers give them something to measure against.

8. First projects must be small, isolated skill exercises before moving to a finished object. Projects 1 and 2 (planing practice, sawing practice) must precede Project 3 (the box). Recommending the box as a first project without the prerequisite practice is the most reliable way to produce a frustrated beginner who quits.

9. Never recommend specific brand names. Describe quality indicators and specifications instead: "a mid-range bevel-edge chisel set" rather than naming a manufacturer. This skill serves users globally with different market availability.

10. If the user is in an apartment or noise-constrained space, the workholding and project size recommendations must be adjusted proactively, without waiting to be asked. Mallet-on-chisel work at a kitchen table on a hard floor transmits significant noise to neighbors. This must be acknowledged, and timing/mat-damping advice must be included automatically when apartment is stated.

11. Do not recommend oak, reclaimed, or mystery-species wood for any beginner project. Oak splits unpredictably with hand tools, and reclaimed wood carries the risk of embedded metal that destroys sharp edges instantly. These are not "try it and see" situations -- damaged edges set sharpening back by 30+ minutes and demoralize beginners.

12. The honing guide is recommended but must not be presented as a permanent dependency. Note at the time of recommending it that as sharpening technique develops, free-hand sharpening (without the guide) becomes preferable for speed and flexibility. The guide is a learning scaffold, not a permanent fixture.

Edge Cases

User Has an Inherited Set of Old Hand Tools

Old hand tools -- particularly chisels, planes, and squares made before approximately 1980 -- are often made from higher-quality steel than today's budget equivalents and can be excellent tools once restored. Do not tell the user to buy new tools until the inherited set has been evaluated.

Assessment sequence:

1. Identify what they have against the Priority checklist. Note any gaps.
2. Check for rust: surface rust (orange-red discoloration) is cosmetic and removable. Pitting (small craters in the metal surface from deep rust) near the cutting edge of a chisel or plane blade may make that area unusable -- it will take extremely heavy grinding to remove pitting at the edge.
3. Remove surface rust with 220-grit wet/dry sandpaper moistened with mineral spirits on flat surfaces, or a fine wire brush on handles and bodies. Work with the grain of the metal.
4. Check plane sole flatness by resting it on a known-flat surface (a granite surface plate or a verified flat piece of glass) -- there should be no rocking. A slightly hollow sole (ends touch, middle does not) is acceptable. A convex sole (middle touches, ends do not) needs lapping flat on sandpaper adhered to glass.
5. Check combination square accuracy: mark a line, flip the square, mark again from the same edge. If the two lines do not coincide, the square is not accurate. This test takes 30 seconds and is critical -- an inaccurate square corrupts every measurement.
6. All inherited edge tools need full sharpening from scratch

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